VERIFIED
When a Maytag washer flashes F3E2, the control is unhappy with the temperature of the water coming in. The sensor that measures it, the inlet thermistor, is reporting an open or shorted circuit.
Checks you can make at the wall
The one owner step Maytag gives is about the water supply. Confirm both the hot and the cold valves are turned all the way open, and that a hose is attached to each of them.
Maytag also mentions that F3E2 can show up when the hot and cold inlet hoses were installed the wrong way round. If the washer was recently moved or hooked up, look at which hose sits on which valve.
- Open the hot and cold valves fully.
- Look at both hoses and make sure each is connected and on the correct side.
- Disconnect the washer’s power for 5 minutes, restore it, and watch whether the code returns.
The thermistor itself
Testing a thermistor takes meters and access to the washer’s wiring, so that part is left to a technician. If the code persists after the checks above, keep the washer unplugged until it has been looked over.
Codes with a similar look
- F3 E2 is written almost the same but is a pressure system fault, not a temperature one.
- F3E1 is the pressure sensor code with a one-character difference in spelling.
- F3 E5 concerns the bulk level sensor on mini bulk systems.
Washer repair in San Francisco and the Bay Area
If F3E2 will not clear, a technician can test the inlet sensor on your Maytag washer anywhere around San Francisco and the Bay Area. Ring (415) 649-2156 and mention that the valves and hoses were checked, along with the model number. Our Maytag washer repair page describes the visit.
Model compatibility: Maytag reuses codes across series and model years, so F3E2 may mean something different on another appliance or generation. Confirm this against your model’s documentation and record your full model number before acting.