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Maytag Dryer Error Codes: Airflow, Heat, Power and Controls

Maytag dryer fault codes grouped by what they point to: airflow, heater, line power, sensors, controls and motor. See which ones are safe to check first.

Maytag Dryer Error Codes: Airflow, Heat, Power and Controls

A dryer that stops and shows letters and numbers is not being cryptic for fun. The control has tested something, found a result it does not like, and chosen to stop. Knowing which family of messages you have, and which ones are really about the vent rather than the machine, is the quickest way to decide between a ten-minute outside check and a technician visit.

How Maytag dryer codes are shaped

Most Maytag dryer messages follow an F-and-E pattern, such as F4 E1, where the first number names a system and the second narrows it down. A few short strings, such as AF, stand on their own. Sometimes the display alternates between an F and an E number. Maytag treats that alternating display as a problem that needs service. Write down the exact characters; the spacing and whether it alternates matter.

Airflow and overheating

This group is the one you can often fix. AF, F30 and F4E3 are all described as restricted airflow: the lint screen or the vent is clogged, crushed or kinked. F4E5 is read as a high limit, where the dryer temperature threshold was exceeded, usually from poor airflow. Clean the lint screen, pull the dryer out a little, check the duct for a crush and look at the outside hood flap before assuming a part failed.

Heat and power

F4 E1 is described as a problem with the heater or the heater relays, and F4E2 describes a second heater problem on electric models. F4E4 and F4 E4 describe low line voltage on the second leg, again for electric models, and F31 and F0E7 describe low or missing line voltage. On an electric dryer, a half-tripped double breaker produces exactly this kind of message, so check the panel before assuming the dryer is faulty. If the breaker is fine and the code returns, the supply wiring or the dryer needs an electrician or a technician.

Sensors and moisture strips

Dryers that sense moisture have strips inside the drum. F3 E2 is explained as a moisture sensor issue that appears when several consecutive loads are dried without the strips being cleaned. F3E2 and F3E7 describe the front and rear strips as open or shorted, and those two appear in service diagnostic mode. F3 E3 describes the inlet thermistor as open or shorted. Fabric softener residue can coat the strips, and a gentle wipe with a cloth is the sort of care the strips need.

Keypad, controls and communication

F2E1 and F2E2 describe a stuck keypad on the lower and upper dryer, respectively, while F2 E1 is a stuck button that shows only in service diagnostic mode. F6 E1 points to the main control, the user interface or wiring, and F6 E2 and F6 E3 describe communication that cannot be heard in one direction or the other. F1E1 is an ACU fault, and F1E3 describes the wrong controller installed on an electric model, which appears after a repair with a mismatched part. FCE3 describes a WiFi connection fault and FCE4 a USB stick fault. The generic F# E# message is for a problem that needs service.

Doors and motor

F5E1 and F5E6 describe door circuit errors on the lower and upper dryer of a stacked unit. F7 E1 points to the motor, the control or the wiring, and F7E6 to F7E9 split up motor circuit and motor sense errors by lower and upper unit. Door and motor messages are not owner repairs. The one owner check is to make sure the door closes fully and nothing, like a sock strap, is caught in it.

Double and stacked dryers

Many of these messages name an upper and a lower dryer. That is a clue that the control knows which chamber has the fault, and it saves time at the door. If you have a laundry center, tell us which one shows the message. For single units such as the MED8630HC, a smart front-load electric dryer, the same codes apply without the upper or lower label.

Owner steps that are safe

  1. Note the full display and whether it alternates.
  2. Clear the lint screen, wipe the strips if you can see them and check the outside vent flap.
  3. For electric dryers, switch the double breaker fully off and on.
  4. For gas dryers, confirm that the gas valve is open. If there is a gas smell, leave the home and call the gas utility or 911 from outside.
  5. Do one controlled power reset and see whether the message returns.

Do not remove the cabinet, probe the terminals or disable the door switch to get another load dry. A burning smell means switching off at the breaker.

Why the model number matters for a code

Some meanings apply only to electric units, others to Maytag moisture-sensing units, others to stacked pairs. Give us the model number from the door opening label along with the code. The article on how to find a Maytag model number shows where to look. For a gas unit such as the MGD7405RR, the electric-only codes will not be the right reading.

When to book a visit

Book if the message returns after cleaning the vent and one reset, if it points to the heater, the controls or the motor, or if the dryer smells hot. The technician diagnoses before repairing, gives a written estimate and does nothing without your approval. Read about the visit on the Maytag dryer repair page, and see the lineup on the Maytag dryers page. If the problem is simply no warmth, the article on a Maytag dryer not heating is next.

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