Maytag Washers

Maytag washers are a familiar sight in Bay Area garages, hall closets and shared basement laundry rooms. The documented lineup covers top-load agitator, top-load impeller and front-load machines, and the repair path differs for each, so it helps to know which one you own before you describe the problem.

Front-load models

The front-load group runs from older to current. The MAH6700AWW is a Neptune front-load washer that is no longer sold new, as is the Epic Z MHWZ600TW. The MFW5500FW is a Fresh Hold front-load washer, and the MHW5500FW is listed simply as a front-load model. Current options include the 27-inch MFW7020RF, a Smart Pet Pro front-load, and the 27-inch MHW8630HC, a Smart Front Load Extra Power model.

Top-load models

Among the agitator washers, the MTW6205RF and MTW7205RF are current, with the second carrying the Pet Pro name. The MTW7200RF is a Pet Pro impeller model. The MVW6230HW and MVW7230HW are Smart Top Load Extra Power washers, and the MVWP575GW is the Commercial-Grade Residential model. Discontinued Bravos machines include the MVWB725BW, MVWB835DW and MVWX655DW, and the MVWC565FW is a PowerWash top-loader.

Where the label is

Look inside the lid or along the door rim, where the label is usually printed. On some machines it sits on the back panel or inside the cabinet opening. Write down the complete line before you call, since a top-load agitator and an impeller model need different parts even when they look alike from above.

Complaints we hear most

• The tub fills but the drum will not spin, or the spin is slow and the load comes out soaked.
• Water stays in the drum after the cycle.
• A front-load door that will not unlock, or a lid that will not lock.
• A musty smell from the door seal or detergent drawer.
• The cabinet shaking or walking across the floor on spin.

We have articles for a washer not spinning, a washer not draining, a washer not filling, lid lock flashing, a washer shaking loudly and front-load odor.

Codes you may see

Maytag washers use both letter-number codes and short letter codes. On top-load machines, LdL means the lid is not locking, Ld is a long-drain message, and OFb reports an off-balance load. On front-load machines, F22 is a door lock issue, F21 is a drain problem and F20 is a water inlet problem. The full list is on our Maytag washer error codes page.

Setup that changes the diagnosis

A standpipe that is too tight or pushed down too far can mimic a failing drain pump. Supply hoses bent behind a stacked unit or a closet door can starve the fill. In garages, an unlevel slab makes a perfectly good washer rock on spin, and in upstairs flats floor flex amplifies the same motion. Front-load machines add a door gasket and a small drain filter that collect lint, coins and hair. A technician looks at these before judging a pump, motor or board.

Safe steps first

Check that the machine is plugged in and the breaker is on. Confirm both water valves are open and the hoses are not kinked, and straighten the drain hose if it is bent. Remove anything stuck in the lid or door, pull the load out if it is bunched on one side, and wipe the gasket. Write down the code and try one controlled power reset. If the washer sits in a closet or under a counter, pull it out only as far as the hoses allow, and never strain the supply lines to do it.

Leave the cabinet closed. Any burning smell means you shut off the power at the breaker.

Book the repair

Request a visit through Maytag washer repair. Diagnosis comes first, the estimate is written, and nothing is repaired without your approval.

Frequently asked questions